Kara's Sights & Bites: Fresh seafood, key lime pie and even boiled peanuts made the ‘best of Pensacola' list

By Kara Kimbrough

     I was tempted to title this column, “Dishes I wished I tried in Pensacola.” This thought is due to the fact that, although I sampled amazing cuisine during a recent short trip, I either overlooked or ran out of time to sample quite a few amazing dishes whose menu descriptions sounded divine. I’ll intersperse a few of the “wish I tried” dishes in with a recap of the amazing cuisine I DID sample and can highly recommend.

    First, let me clarify something about Pensacola’s The Fish House. I mentioned a couple of weeks ago that the homemade smoked corn tartar sauce “almost outshone the fried shrimp and sides” with which it was served. After sharing the name, the idea that you might have gotten the impression that this upscale eatery was akin to one of the many rustic “fish houses” that are dotted across the U.S., especially the south. This couldn’t be farther than the truth.

    Opened close to 30 years ago in downtown Pensacola overlooking the scenic bay, the restaurant’s first mission was to serve grits for 2,000 people as they welcomed Governor Jeb Bush to its historic district. Fast forward to today and I regret not ordering the restaurant’s signature dish, Grits à Ya Ya. I’ll let the menu description speak for itself:

    “Spiced Gulf jumbo shrimp top a sauté of spinach, portobello mushrooms, applewood-smoked bacon, garlic, shallots, and cream over a heaping bed of smoked Gouda cheese grits.”

     Is there any wonder I’m still kicking myself for passing this by?

     But there are still bright shining moments of my culinary journey through Pensacola. Perhaps my favorite meal was enjoyed at downtown Pensacola’s Union Public House. To say there were surprises every step of the way – good ones, to be clear – isn’t an overstatement.

     First, after perusing creative menu items, including an interest lineup of appetizers that included Korean barbecue wings, pimento cheese puffs and grouper and shrimp corndog, among other offerings, it was the final two choices that held my attention. Cajun boiled peanuts and pork rinds aren’t items normally found in a dining establishment that I wouldn’t characterize as “fine dining,” but definitely above-average  in terms of ambience, food quality and personal service.

    I threw caution to the wind and ordered boiled peanuts after my server explained the chef’s version was "different." They’re boiled with a special blend of seasonings and served with lemon; simple, yet addictive at the same time. I'm sure I'll never again be able to enjoy the roadside vendor's version. 

   For my entree, I selected redfish piccata; quite possibly the freshest and most delicious-tasting fish I’ve ever sampled. Served over a bed of wilted Swiss chard, cous cous and quinoa, sun-dried tomato and olives, it’s definitely a meal I plan to repeat.

     And my only regret about a memorable Union Public House experience? I passed on dessert…a huge mistake. Not sampling the chef’s buttermilk pie topped with a blueberry compete and here’s the interesting part – smoked corn ice cream – a combination that other diners raved about in online reviews, is one of my biggest regrets. I won’t be happy until I can return and sample this delectable dessert.

   In the interest of time, here are a few more culinary highlights of my visit to Pensacola:

·        Bodacious Café

Best: Bayfront Bagel Sandwich filled with scrambled egg, turkey sausage, tomato and cheese. Regret – Not ordering more cranberry-orange muffins to-go.

·        5 Sisters Blues Café

Best: fried pork chops with mashed potatoes and gravy fried okra and cornbread. Regret: Not ordering fruit cobbler ala mode for dessert.

·        Native Café

Best: Pancakes and cheese grits.  Regret: Not ordering a made-to-order omelet.

·        Red Fish, Blue Fish

Best: Key lime pie, Florida’s unofficial signature dessert. Regret: Overlooking the fried shrimp po’boy

    I sampled other delicious small bites and entrees during my visit and yes, there are plenty more that I wish I’d tried. Pensacola offers a wealth of fresh, delicious seafood and other cuisines at restaurants ranging from small neighborhood joints to elegant eateries. Don’t just take my word for it; plan a trip to enjoy some of the best food I’ve sampled at any coastal beach destination.

   If you’d like more information on Pensacola’s culinary scene, attractions or accommodations, drop me an email and I’ll be happy to share more recommendations. As for me, I'm still dreaming about fried shrimp (and tartar sauce), redfish, key lime pie and yes, boiled peanuts. 

 Kara Kimbrough is a food and travel writer from Mississippi. Email her at [email protected].

 Easy Florida Key Lime Pie

5   large egg yolks, beaten

14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk

½ cup fresh key lime juice

9-inch prepared graham cracker crust

Topping: homemade whipped cream or store-bought whipped topping (optional).

     Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine sweetened condensed milk, key lime juice, and egg yolks in a large bowl; mix well. Pour mixture into unbaked graham cracker crust.

     Bake in preheated oven until filling is set, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely before slicing. Top each slice with a dollop of whipped cream if desired.